How sad are the U.A.E or how sad I was

World's most expensive scotch - 7,439 USD

The Federation of the United Arab Emirates was established on December 2nd 1971, when 6 of  today’s 7 member sheikdoms/emirates(Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Um-Al Quaim, Fujairah and Ajman) came together as a federation of monarchies thus founding a country where once there was a British protectorate – The Trucial States of Oman, which would also include a portion of today’s Qatar as well as some tribal areas the Sultanate of Oman. In March 1972, the emirate of Ras-Al-Kaimah or “the tip of the tent”  also decided to join the Federation, after the final acknowledgement that there were no oil resources within its territorial limits.

The United Arab Emirates is a federation of monarchies. The title “president” is somewhat misleading, as the head of state of the federation is “president” of the Supreme Council of Rulers, i.e. he is the presiding ruler among seven co-equal emirs. The president of the UAE is elected for a five-year period. The current president of the U.A.E (and he will be elected over and over again) is Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed Al Nahyan. His father, also known as the “Father of the Nation”, Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan was President from 1971 to his death in 2004.

Sheikh Zayed was indeed a remarkable ruler, able to conciliate tribal traditions in dealing with politics, he  skillfully managed to  convert oil revenue in infrastructure and wealth of his own people. Summarizing: Al Nahyan= Sheikh Zayed=Abu Dhabi= UAE’s development.

Obviously, his intriguing figure was widely explored by media, mainly in the 1970s. When Zayed wanted to built a taxi fleet for Abu Dhabi’s newly accomplished master plan, he would distribute suitcases packed with dollar bills to those interest in join the cause. Some say that, in the old times, he would not have more than 2 Qatari rupees on his pocket. He was all about sharing. In a number of picture shots, he was portrayed  barefoot, walking on the deadly hot desert landscape of Abu Dhabi’s Western Region.

But Zayed’s main reputation was that of a womanizer. There are many versions for describing his harem in the island of Sir Bani Yas – a sanctuary with animals, artificially irrigated fields and young beauties from the most varied ethnic origins and looks. Today, the island houses a Luxurious  hotel with organized desert safari trips. It still bares the name of Bani Yas – the tribal branch of all Emirati people.

Abu Dhabi (the fatherland of the gazelle) is by far the largest landmass in the country. It comprises approximately 2/3 of the federal territory which is about the size of Austria. Their oil resources are estimated to last for over 150 years, unlike in Dubai, where for a long time Tourism and Services are the main economic sectors.

Oil was discovered in the Trucial States in 1958 and a decade-like prospection contract was signed with BP. Prior to that, those living in  tribal zones would rely on nomadic life, alternating between date-harvesting, fishing, pearl diving and finally, trading.

It was only with leaders such as Sheikh Saeed-Al Makhtoum, in Dubayy (Today’s Do buy!), that this particular emirate’s main vocation – trading, was to become the  mainstream of business in the calm and relatively shallow waters of the Kaleej (Gulf).

Whether to call it the Persian Gulf or the Arabian Gulf, depends on which side of they same you might find yourself in. Hence Kaleejmakes things easier, or safer…one would certainly call the gulf “Persian” if in Bandar Abbas, on the Iranian side. There has been always rivalry, however there are clear specks of Persian heritage in the Emirati side of the Hormuz Strait. One of them, the Barjeel or the wind tower – a primitive but very effective ventilation/air conditioning system that is present in many of today’s Arabian mansions, as an integral part of Kaleej architecture.

By the way, if you want to purchase something in Tehran with your American Express credit card, don’t be surprised if the charging bank branch happens to be located in Dubai. The trade links are vigorous and up to this day one can find numerous wooden boats or Dhows crossing the Gulf from Iran towards Dubai Creek or Sharjah to trade in a wide variety of spices such as saffron, rose water, hibiscus flowers, oregano, anise, figs, fragrances…

If this is to be considered past, at least in the hearts of the wealthy-born 21st century Emirati citizens, their roots must not fade away, say those who have had to work hard to transform oil income in the infrastructure of country where there once was the one and only Rub Al Khali (“The Empty Quarter” or how the Arabian Desert is referred to in the Peninsula).  Needless to say, air conditioning was to be unknown until the 1970s. In the Arabian peninsula, temperatures can easily reach the mark of 50 C (and more). And it feels like its more!

Efforts to preserve and uphold the Arab are seen everywhere – reason why you’ll find the sailing motives in the shape of skyscrapers, hotels and shopping centers; and even in their utmost reference of Luxury – Dubai’s first symbol of triumph, the Burj Al Arab (the Arabian Tower).

If until late 1960′s camels and donkeys could be found  in the stress of the second biggest and second richest emirate. Today,  the world’s most luxurious hotel enterprise can pick you up from the airport in a Rolls Royce Phantom or a helicopter.

The sailed-shaped Hotel stands upon the city’s first artificial island and was built back in  1999. It has brought the city of Dubai to a world-class level of prestige and fame. 321 meters high, 27 stores; a place where you can order the world’s most expensive cocktail for a price proportional to its measures 27,321 Dirhams or something around USD 7,000, for a glass of scotch. That’s the paradigm shift to the extreme!

But the records the average tourists in Dubai are looking for are nothing but a reflex of the place’s inevitable identity decay,  portrayed in a mask of stupidity and ostentation.

The average tourist stays for no more than a week, alternating visits to malls, dune dinner or desert safari packages or doing amazing things such as skiing in the world’s largest indoor slope.

The average construction workforce individual stays as long as his passport is kept by his “sponsor”.  80% of UAE’s general population are expatriates. Mainly workers hired in the Indian subcontinent.

The average Emirati is subsidized by the government and occupy the highest posts in whatever Governmental office is the most suitable; politically. There is an attitude of arrogance among youngsters, specially towards expatriates.

Women are pursuing graduate and post-graduate education and counting on the prospect of transformation and liberalization of the society.

My first visit to the United Arab Emirates was in May 2008. A promising and exciting adventure that has turned out to be the most challenging and difficult period of my whole life.

For a period of 2 years, 6 months, 11 days, I have felt enchantment with the tales of the desert, with its mystical powers and its greatness . I have heard of and seen the deeds of people whose mission was to transform the lives of their brothers and sisters. I have seen a 21st century’s model slavery and the importance of freedom.

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